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Picture postcard moments like the ones below are harder and harder to come by. hardly ever travel for pure funsies unless it something blog or workrelated and however far flung, there never any time set aside for leisureseeking. I have to thank Louis Vuitton for once again, taking myself and Steve on a Secret Places journey, one that includes those notsosecret, yet still aweinspiring places such as the view from the dell overlooking the Grand Canal in Venice. in January, we took out two days to go with Louis Vuitton to discover their shoemaking expertise at the Fiesso d just outside of Venice. was a redux back to a place, which I have personally have sketchy memories of (from a secondary school art trip), and so a refresh was much needed. first part of the trip was devoted to more of pure picture postcard haven, amplified by the cinematic fog, which settled over this city of islands. took in the rich history (quite literally, rich the tales told to us by our detailed walking tour guide revolved mainly around merchants, trading, buying and selling). ducked and dived in and around the narrow alley ways and tiny bridges until the early evening, convinced that Venice is one of the few cities in the world, where getting lost is actually a good thing. were made to look up and down at buildings, to note nuances of architecture styles, anecdotes of doomed doges and ruined merchants and the physical task of putting up with acqua alta. gorged on lemon meringue pie at Harry Bar (how DO they make their meringue so damn fluffy?) and sipped on oozing chocolatey coffee concoctions at which are truly rooted establishments rather than tourist traps. was a chance to learn about Louis Vuitton less wellknown part of their business. I never thought it would be an oversight, it still surprised me when a young sales assistant tells me why a men shoe style is named after the Golden Gate Bridge, rattling off the materials it made out of and why they were selected. a difference between being informed and then truly trying to imbue passion about the product in even the most nonplussed of people. definitely were on the more enthusiastic end of the scale, hanging on their every advice on fit, sizing and styles. was grappling between the 20something year old me in a pair of "Flamingo" print platform sandals with Stephen Sprouse leopard print peeking out and the 3040something year old me in a pair of delicate black slingback "Grace" heels in black silk, again with Sprouse leopard subtly glinting at you. pragmatic brain was telling me that I be wearing the black ones until my feet are all wrinkly Pandora Canada and http://www.cvillewords.com/hockey-jerseys.html bunionrideen. bubble brain was yelling at me for even thinking of dipping into the cliches of "timelessness" and "classicism". me won out. had opted for the platform sandals in a perfect size 38.5. name should have been the telling clue anyway. to the historic Asnires outside Paris, a onetime home of Monsieur Oakley Outlet Louis Vuitton, their Fiesso d workshop is a fairly new addition, built in its present state in September 2009. fact, Louis Vuitton shoe making business was only established in 1998, shortly before Marc Jacobs became the creative director. Vuitton toms outlet seek values of craftsmenship that are not dependent on their Made in France moniker, which is the case for their luggage and bags, but for their shoes, Fiesso d was the obvious place to be based. the 13th century, craftsmen from the Riviera del Brenta have been providing shoes for the Venetian aristocracy, earning its reputation as the "land of shoes". of the people who work for Louis Vuitton come from generations of shoe craftsmen. into any local restaurant and you find every patron is likely to be in the shoe making game. are well and truly ingrained into this area but I suspect no factory has quite the architectural swagger that the Louis Vuitton facility does, where three years of research went in, just to find out what would make the optimum shoe production system. have to emphasise a point here that ALL of Louis Vuitton shoes are made here in Fiesso d having read too many lazy "Bulls, LV shoes are made in China!" comments on forums and on YouTube. evident that this Fiesso D facility blends the best of technology with the priceless knowhow of this shoe town to produce what Louis Vuitton believes is the best footwear offering. got to be lilliputian by standing next to a giant pump sculpture by Jacques Ory, painted with Boticelli Venus inside as well as a saucepan shoe by Joana Vasconcelos. women, the S/S 09 AfricanJazz collection was the most intricate in terms of technical detailing and skin pairings, so these are proudly on display. had almost forgotten how brilliantly that collection fused Parisian swingtime with pop Africana. reading. NOVEL. of Fiesso D was offlimits to photography as new styles and prototypes were being produced at the time. was sadly where all the most brilliant observations about Louis Vuitton shoe knowhow were made. please say that you attempt to get through these pictureless paragraphs. promise it all sort of worth it, especially if you a behindthescenes process geek. you aren the picture chronology might seem a little patchy.
The first part Michael Kors Canada was truly mind boggling. were taken into a laboratory where a shoe technician or Signor Shoe Scientist as I dubbed him talked us through an extraordinary http://townwalworthny.com/Toms-Outlet.html set of machnery that did a comprehensive set of tests testing the strength of leather, whether it would colour or not, whether a heel would break or not, how much pressure a heel could take, how much walking a sole could withstand these incredible pieces of technical kit inform Vuitton about what sort of leathers they would use and what heel shapes were suitable. tests done before prototyping and before production in addition to having fit models walk around in the shoes themselves. scientific facts to bend your brain. use artificial sweat to test whether a leather colours. SWEAT, for god sake! put a shoe inside a humidity chamber to test it in different climate situations (Louis Vuitton is afterall sold everywhere around the world). ensure heels can withstand a 90kg pressure force, instead of the international standard of 50kg. knew there was even such a standard in the world? that endproduct logoed moccasin or pump, which seems completely inconspicuous in fact hides a ton of research and indepth product testing. on to the crucial lasts, where Steve eye candies every bit of carved wood. lasts are to him, what errr. anything pink and glittery is to me. Louis Vuitton, they are hand carved and moulded with paste until the perfect shape is achieved. they are cast in plastic for production. generally don reuse the same shoe last unless it a classic style (the moccasin or the ballerina flat for instance), which is frighteningly exacting to me considering how many styles of shoes Vuitton produces each season. minimise waste by melting down the plastic to reuse for future lasts. where they make elegant women shoes. where they make the rubber soled moccasins. where trainers are made. where the classic men shoes are made. the nopicture policy struck and I wasn really allowed to photograph anything in Alma, Speedy or Taiga. witnessed a few shoe factories now but I can safely say that the processes seen here blows anything I seen before, out of the water. have to just take my word for it. struck me was how deftly Vuitton knew where to employ technology and where to use their expert craftsmen, who were all beadily intent on getting a perfect product. isn about using machines to increase productivity and take shortcuts in the production line but instead machines are used to genuinely improve the shoe and ensure that they meet all of those aforementioned exacting tests. the Alma room, when cutting out leather pieces to construct the shoe, some are cut by metal cookiecutter type shapes, some are cut by computer programming and some are cut by hand for instance to ensure the LV monogram logo falls in the right places, hands needs to be employed. kind of awesome and scary to watch men keep four or five nails in their mouths whilst they hammering them into the heels on to the soles. stage of shoe making which I witnessed in other factories is multipled two or three fold at Louis Vuitton because there are extra quality checks, extra ways of securing heels on to soles, extra steps to ensure there are no wrinkles in the leather. are of course all humanprocesses which in Vuitton eyes can be replicated by machine. the Speedy room, machinery read proprogrammed microchips, which tells it which style it is constructing. actually truly majestic to watch the shoe slowly going through this Fernand Lgerlooking piece of kit and at the end, the bare bones of a uniform Louis Vuitton trainer are made. the Nomade room, craftsmen expertly hand stitch the mocassin shoes. could make the same product by machine but they choose not to in this instance because they feel it what differentiates their mocassin from the countless brands that do this classic shoe. take mega strength to stitch through leather by hand. weird to think that those pairs of car shoes, which are on the feet of so many businessmen (on their casual Friday uniforms) the world over, all came through bareknuckled strength and skill at Fiesso. also specifically a men product where handpainted soles, calf leather finishes, croc and alligator skins, number of shoelace holes and shades of leather are all important details. is one of a kind at Louis Vuitton, training two other people to do what he does at the moment, which is a distant worry for the company. spoke of the struggle to find the new genertaion of shoemaking in Fiesso d where there is a polytechnical college to encourage young people to take up the local signature craft. only vaguely Oakley UK worrisome for Louis Vuitton but as Roberto illustrates, without him, there can ven be a made to order men shoe service just because only he, can sew tight and even stitches on those wellcrafted soles.
If Asnieres in France was where my knowledge of Louis Vuitton roots and dedication to maintaining craftsmanship standards were consecrated, then Fiesso d is where I really witnessed this company desire to bomgine forwardthinking with the upholding of traditions. not a simple reductive case of machine=bad and handmade=good. faire or knowhow at its best is when you strive for excellent standards, using whatever means are available to you. why a pair of "normal" looking shoes warrants a certain price point, by opening the doors of Fiesso d to people like myself is definitely one small step towards that end goal. twenty something me is perching quite happily on these platforms by the by.
Pollini may not be a shoe label with a widely known history or heritage but it does have one and atemporary exhibit entitled "Unpacking 60 Years of Pollini", which was feted Oakley today exploited all possible elements that would reveal this shoe and leather goods company background. made it particularly interesting was to have the involvement of editorinchief of The Gentlewoman (haven devoured the new issue yet but the cover is mighty enticing, no?) and creative digital producer Jane Audas (she has a very sweet blog about the subject of Shelf Appeal), as cocurators of the exhibition. was also striking graphic support from Veronica Ditting, who is responsible for the distinctive art direction of both The Gentlewoman and Fantastic Man. of those background forces combined with the everdirectional designs of Nicholas Kirkwood, who has been creative director of Pollini since 2010, made for a satisfying and fun way of exploring Pollini history. ramshackle pile of shoe boxes sat in the middle of the room with archive pairs of Pollini shoes popping up from past decades and you immediately notice that they mostly display practical and chunky heels as Pollini catered to the "modern" woman. were shoes made for walking. "sturdiness" is something that Kirkwood has definitely drawn from for his current designs. the bottom of the shoe box pile was the current A/W 134 collection, which immediately gets my vote for its mix of textures, colours and most importantly heel shapes, which Cheap Oakley Sunglasses I know can pound the pavement properly. a special reinvention project, Kirkwood took the original 1977 Pollini "Cavaliere" boot and reinterpreted them for six of his ideal Pollini icons Monica Vitti, Grace Jones, David Bowie, Ellen von Unwerth, Patty Hearst and Lena Dunham. doubt, Dunham character in Girls would approve of the "wrong" deliberate clash of prints on the boots because she dares to go braless with a yellow string vest.
Upstairs, you could get some vivid neon orange and Yves Klein blue nail wraps done as well as get in on the "Pollini Social Club" action by getting your Polaroid snapped with a pair of Pollini on. I went for the pair of flatform sandals with the flashes of braided neon. shoe brand birthdays get this many facets to its party so for that, I commend Martin, Audas and the Pollini team for squeezing as much out of its 60 year history as possible. Longchamp sacs It also a bit of a redundant question to ask when it comes to the origins of the majority of designers who show in London, if you going to be pedantic and ask them what passport they hold. Take Antipodium. Creative director Geoffrey J. Finch originally hails from Australia and his contemporary label that always promises bags of funfuelled wearability, was originally spawned from a Londonbased showroom and PR company, promoting labels from down under. Now Antipodium is firmly rooted to East London and has been in an upward ascent in popularity with its conceptnart infused designs at smart prices. A/W 134 collection was a multimedia mashup, both in texture and in inspiration. Sex, Lies CCTV is the title that preambles this sleazefilled collection. Spy cams, sex tapes and guilty pleasure trash thrillers like Sliver and Basic Instinct set the scene for this sartorial investigation of modern day voyeurism. There a delectable unease about the textures sickly pistachio or muddy berry slick patent, fluffy sheepskin contrasted with flashy lilac metallic panels, faux pony and velvet sit in one tactile but slightly disturbed "Trophy" coat. This was a collection full of deceptive outerwear options where fronton, you see one thing, and then you turn to the side or round the back and you see another. have once again collaborated with duo Craig Karl on the prints, which are based on CCTV footage screencaps and security guard video walls. up patent emerged as a favoured fabric from London Fashion Week, and no doubt Antipodium take on this "sleaze with ease" style will prove popular. if they come in loafer form. Anderson has a highlow shoe collaboration been this awesome. mesh, patent, sheeny shiny buckles, snakeskineffect and a touch of olive suede are all intermixed into different texture combos. loafers are undoubtedly my favourite out of the lot and for a well affordable 75. A commenter called me out for calling Sophia Webster shoes reasonable priced the other day. maintain that they are in a designer shoe world context but I admit I was a bit overenthused about my pricing language. sweet little collab though is well and truly within most means, with plenty of design packed into the price tag. pleased that in one outfit, cork, pvc sheeting and clear plastic manage to come together, like a jumbled up Blue Peter craft project.
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